The little things that make the difference

This so called handkerchiefs originated from ancient Greece,  where  it was a rich guy affair.  It is the single most indispensable tool for defining the modern bloke of style according to GQ magazine  . It is not a science but an art that doesn't involve any steadfast rule in choosing. Pocket squares should always compliment the shirt and tie but not match them. Let us be honest with one another a suit without a square is a naked suit.
I am one of those lads who likes doing things differently, this means wearing it with shirts, denim jackets, waist coats or overcoats as will be shown in this blog.
However we have a few rules,  one if it is used to blow your nose it belongs to pants pocket not your breast pocket. If its silky it doesn't belong to your  breast pocket either it belongs to another century (no punt intended to old folks).
There are various ways of folding ; classic,  patterned,  tipped,  volcano/scattered. Check out the images

With shirts, denim jackets

Volcano/unstructured type

classic

Folding process

Its supposed to be a finishing touch not a focal point.....ADIOS

Let's tie the shirt

I have to admit that I am humbled by the response I am getting from blokes out there and even ladies. The first half of the this year I have dedicated it to laying down styling rules. We all know how important styling is, the first thing a person sees in you is what you wear and not your personality.
Today I want us to focus on simple rules about shirts, here we go
1.Collar should grease your neck and not constrict it
2. Cuff links should meet at the point where your palms begin
3. Shoulder seam should be at  your collar bone
4. Sleeves should not be  so tight as to show the details of your arm and it should not be low to billow
5. When you fold your hands behind your head , the shirt should not come off the pants. If it does then it means that your armholes are not high enough.
6. Shirt length should be such  that  you  can bend  and make natural movements  without it coming off  your pants.
7. There should not be excess fabric  in the chest and waste. This causes billowing.
8. The choice of tie should be based on the collar type of your shirt and the body size.
9. About 2 centimetres of shirt collar should be revealed by the jacket collar
10. Shirt sleeve should never cover your watch
11. Finally I leave you with an illustration of how to roll your shirt

Basic rules of buttoning a suit

After last week's article  your father didn't teach you this  its time we looked at rule number 9 in detail " When suited always remember to unbutton as you sit and button up as you stand." Blokes let us examine one buttoned jacket and for your information,  this is supposed to be casual wear yet we see guys strutting to offices with them
1.with single breasted 3 button blazer, there are 2 options when standing fasten up first 2 buttons and leave the third one or fasten the middle button.
2. With single two button blazer the top must be fastened when standing and the second shouldn't be. When seated it should be unbuttoned
3. With a single one button blazer very simple to remember, when standing you should always button the only button and when seated you should unbutton

There you got, get suited well blokes

Your father didn't teach you this

I will take a break from the usual bloke banter of photos with the exception of one and give you tips that you will never get to hear from your folks or better halves not unless they have been reading my mind. And the Chu Chu Chu train of style tips  states...........
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1.  By now you already know that you are not allowed to leave the house without a watch, if you can't afford a Rolex buy something equally as interesting at the other end of the spectrum like a Luminox—those are really cool. Don't buy a watch trying to emulate a Rolex or other major brands. Remember you should own at least three watches one for office,  a sporty one and a watch for outdoors
  2. If you're going to play with color start with one. If you're wearing yellow, everything else should be navy and grey. Yes, I've been known to wear bright green and pink at the same time but I don't do that often. Cultivate the culture first then you can experiment later.
3. If you're putting in the effort to wear a tie, finish it off with a smart and simple tie bar. Not a decorative, big, or funny one. Just something functional.
4. A quarter-and-an-inch chocolate brown belt with a sterling buckle goes with everything from jeans to chinos to a proper suit. It may cost you  a fortune but it's a good investment.
5. If you're slim and tall and young, wear pleated pants. They accentuate every flaw you have so don't wear them if you have hips because the outcome may not be desired
6. Blokes always  have a good packing system especially on the move. Jackets should be turned inside out to protect the shoulders, and similar  things go together. Pants on the bottom, jackets on top. Socks and underwear get rolled.
7.When it comes to Chinos A big, beautiful world lies beyond the flat-front-khaki safe zone you've been hiding out in.
8. When you wear a suit with a  slim lapel,  the tie should always be slimmer than the lapel
9. When suited always remember to unbutton as you sit and button up as you stand
10. Remember the phrase NAKED MEN DO NOT MAKE STATEMENTS
I leave you with this photo comparison of a bad and savile bloke blazer. ADIOS

Lets travel mate

After taking a study break for the last 4 months of 8-4-4  I think I should inform all lads out that there are no worries when it comes to folding blazers when on the move. This tips will go a long way

Breaking and re-making rules

In fashion you are remembered for the rules you break and they had to follow your way leading to emergence of new trends or a possible isolation , making it your style. Denim has been there for as long as I can remember but what we see is blokes doing it the same way our ancestors did. Very few are willing to explore the unknown. Well well who said we cannot have denim as your official wear? No one, so here we go

Measurement effect

With suits its about getting #savilblokements right and that is it. That is the difference between  what you buy and what bespoke suits offer you. Lets talk graphics.

 go bespoke or go home 

book #SavileBloke